Rabat - Roman Ruins, Mausoleums and a Kasbah

One of the reasons I booked this cruise was because it was going to make two stops in Morocco - Agadir and Casablanca.  I was looking forward to seeing a country I had never visited before even though it would be a short visit to only two places.  When we returned to the ship on March 15th, the captain announced that, because of weather conditions, we would not be going to Agadir and, instead, we'd be spending two nights docked in Casablanca.  I immediately started researching something to do that first day we'd be there.  It was a bit frustrating as a lot of the tours that interested me required at least two people to book it.  So, I decided to talk to a few people I'd met on the ship to see if anyone would be interested in joining me.  Luckily, I found three (all Aussies) and we booked a tour to Rabat, Morocco's capital.

Youssef, our guide, was waiting for us with a lovely small van when got off the ship on March 17th.  We got on the road and the traffic in the city was nuts – sort of like that in Istanbul but maybe a bit worse and with less structure if that is at all possible.  Once we were out of the city, however, the driving was easy.  We took the main highway to Rabat, which is the capital of Morocco.  It took about 45 minutes to get there.

Rabat, Modern Capital and Historic City: a Shared Heritage is a designated World Heritage Site.  From the WHS website, it explains that the site is located on the Atlantic coast in the north-west of Morocco and is the product of a fertile exchange between the Arabo-Muslim past and Western modernism. The inscribed city encompasses the new town conceived and built under the French Protectorate from 1912 to the 1930s, including royal and administrative areas, residential and commercial developments and the Jardins d’Essais botanical and pleasure gardens.  It also encompasses older parts of the city dating back to the 12^thcentury.  The new town is one of the largest and most ambitious modern urban projects built in Africa in the 20th century and probably the most complete. The older parts include Hassan Mosque (begun in 1184) and the Almohad ramparts and gates, the only surviving parts of the project for a great capital city of the Almohad caliphate as well as remains from the Moorish, or Andalusian, principality of the 17^thcentury.

Our first stop was the archaeological site of Chellah.  The story of Chellah begins with the Phoenicians, who established it as a crucial trading post near the Atlantic Ocean.  This strategic location near the Bou Regreg River made it an ideal settlement for various civilizations throughout history.  The site remained under Phoenician control until the 3rd century AD when it transformed into a prosperous Roman port city.  The Roman period left an indelible mark on Chellah's landscape, with remnants of their architectural prowess still visible in the ruins today.  The site showcases distinctive Roman arches and various structural elements that highlight the sophisticated urban planning of the era.

Excavations during the 20^th century revealed the presence of temples, baths, a public square (forum), a triumphal arch and other features.  We spent about an hour wandering around the site.  We had purchased the audio-guide but it contained way too much detail for me to remember much of anything.  We did see lots of storks – more than in Alsace - as well as a peacock. 

Following the visit to Chellah, we drove to The Mausoleum of Mohammed V located across from the Hassan Tower.  It contains the tombs of the Moroccan king Mohammed V and his two sons, late King Hassan II and Prince Abdallah.  Hassan Tower or Tour Hassan is the minaret of an incomplete mosque in Rabat, Morocco.  It was commissioned by Abu Yusuf Yaqub al-Mansur, the third caliph of the Almohad Caliphate, near the end of the 12th century.  We toured inside the mausoleum and, as well, took lots of photos from the grounds including across the river towards the city of Sale and of the city’s opera house which from one angle looks like the head of a cobra.  The tile work inside the mausoleum was amazing.  The grounds are guarded by two soldiers on horseback. 

Our final stop was a kasbah which we walked through.  Two of the most common terms you'll come across when visiting Morocco are "kasbah" and "medina." While they may sound similar, they actually refer to two different things.  Firstly a medina is essentially an old city, typically located within walls.  The medina is the heart of the city and is often the most lively and vibrant part of town. In Morocco, the medina is usually home to many shops and marketplaces, selling everything from traditional crafts to fresh produce.  The streets are narrow and winding, and it's easy to get lost in the maze-like alleyways. However, this is all part of the charm of the medina.

On the other hand, a kasbah is a type of fortress or citadel.  Kasbahs were originally built to protect against attacks from rival tribes or invading forces. In Morocco, many kasbahs have been converted into hotels or museums, offering visitors a glimpse into the country's rich history. Kasbahs are often located in remote areas and offer stunning views of the surrounding landscape.  Although kasbahs and medinas have different origins and purposes, they do share some similarities. For example, both are often made from the same material: adobe, which is a type of mud brick.  Additionally, both kasbahs and medinas are often home to traditional Moroccan architecture, such as the distinctive pointed arches and ornate tile work.

In this kasbah, one side faces the sea and the views from there were lovely.  There were many tiled alleyways which have been recognized by UNESCO.  Because it was Ramadan, many of the shops and all of the restaurants were closed.  We checked out a few souvenir shops but I didn’t buy anything.  After that, we drove along the coast for quite a distance seeing where some of the city’s beautiful homes are located.  I was impressed with Rabat as it seemed to be a very clean and organized city, a huge contrast from my first impression of Casablanca.

We got back to the ship around 4:30 and we all agreed it had been a very good tour, particularly as it cost €95 each, about 2/3 of the ship excursion and our group was small in a comfortable vehicle.